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Salons Using Hair Powder Lightener: How To Achieve Excellent Results

July 26, 2021

Jose Iturrieta

In the past decade, we have seen quite a few techniques emerge on how to lighten hair, and how to wear fashionable statements with our hair.  Who would have thought that having a re-growth would be so fashionable today? Dying and bleaching hair wouldn’t be possible without the use of a hair powder lightener.

What we have been experiencing in the salons is that are few of us have been getting a reaction with our foils.  Aluminium being a good heat conductor we do tend to experience some warmth in foils, but occasionally we are experiencing an increase in temperature that becomes unbearable to our clients.  I will share with you some of the information that has been passed on to me by one of the manufacturers of hair bleach.  This company has a history of 60 years of creating hair bleach for different hair care brands around the world.



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Considerations When Using Hair Powder Lightener

  1. Is the hair bleach of a quality to be used in foils? Not all hair bleach is made the same, some use different ingredients than others.
  2. The quality of the foil been used is particularly important as well. Test have been conducted by this company using lower grades of foils and have found that hair bleach becomes incompatible with the foil been used.  That’s why it’s important that we have the right type of foils to carry out our services.
  3. Once the hair bleach is mixed with the developer it starts to release oxygen if the foils are folded too tight there will not be enough room for the gas to escape. This will also cause a rise in temperature in your foils, so make sure to keep an eye on how tight you fold.  This will also cause the weeping foil effect.
  4. Also, be very mindful of the quality of hair that you are about to conduct this service, is the hair free of mineral build-up, is the hair free of metallic dyes and make sure the client has not had any type of henna products on their hair. If there is mineral build-up, you will experience a reaction that will cause the hair bleach and developer to heat up. This will then become weepy like water dripping from your foils.
  5. Consider if you are using a hair powder lightener or a creme bleach, they can sometimes give different results.

Remember that in my last post I spoke about silicone been stable up to 600 degrees Celsius?  Well, all the information that we have seen online regarding how the silicone build-up is melting in the foils and that is why we see the dripping foils.  For this to happen we need to have the temperature above 600 degrees Celsius.  What would happen to our client’s hair and scalp if we managed to get to this type of temperature?  Would we have a client still sitting on that chair?


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Here are few interesting things to know when we are carrying our services in the salon.

Fun Facts For Carrying Out a Salon Service With Hair Bleach

Calcium – builds up on the hair, leaving the hair feeling dry and weighted down. It can even cause perms to be relaxed.

Copper – from copper water pipes, copper sulphates added to pool and drinking water to control algae growth. Oxidized copper discolours light hair, producing a green tint, and causes dark hair to tint darker. It can weigh hair down, and cause problems in perms, colouring, lightening and relaxers.

Iron – prevents proper chemical processing. Heavy amounts of iron will tint light-coloured hair orange and cause dark hair to become darker with red highlights.

Magnesium – is associated with hard water, which attaches to the hair making it feel dry and weigh down.

Silica – water-borne silica can build up on the hair, causing the same effect as calcium- dryness, dandruff, weight, and hair loss.

Lead – this element can build up, leaving the hair feeling dry and preventing proper chemical services, such as perms and hair colour from processing properly, think of Grecian.

If these minerals are on the hair, you may experience some heat, please remove the foils immediately and rinse hair thoroughly.  A good Chelating Shampoo is great at removing mineral build-up.

Using Hair Powder Lightener to Create Foils

Hairdressers will each have their own technique when creating colours. Depending on the factors mentioned above will help to determine how long a head of foils should take. The way you will conduct a scalp bleach to foiling will be completely different. It’s important to continually educate yourself and look to see industry trends to see if there are better ways in which you can be doing things. Popular looks now include root stretches and balayage for low maintenance colours. While they may not need to visit the salon as frequently, the initial service will be time-consuming. The before and afters will be well worth it!

Hopefully, this will help next time you have to do a chemical service. If you have any other tips and tricks you think should be included, comment down below!

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